Mounting a TV on the wall in London costs £60–£180, and usually takes 1–2 hours. A straightforward fixed bracket on a plasterboard stud wall sits at the lower end. A large TV, a full-motion bracket, a brick or concrete wall, or cables hidden inside the wall pushes it towards the top.
TV mounting cost by job type
| Job | London price | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Small–medium TV, fixed bracket, stud wall | £60 – £90 | ≈ 1 hr |
| Large TV (55″+), fixed bracket | £80 – £120 | 1 – 1.5 hrs |
| Tilt or full-motion bracket | £90 – £140 | 1 – 2 hrs |
| Brick or concrete wall | £90 – £150 | 1 – 2 hrs |
| With cables concealed in trunking | £110 – £160 | 1.5 – 2 hrs |
| With cables chased into the wall | £130 – £180 | 2 hrs+ |
Mounting two TVs in one visit is cheaper per unit than two separate call-outs — and if you have other jobs, a half day at £280–£380 may cost less overall.
What changes the price
- Wall type. Plasterboard with studs is quickest. Brick and concrete need different fixings and take longer. Dot-and-dab plasterboard over brick needs longer fixings to reach solid masonry.
- TV size and weight. Larger screens need heavier brackets and more fixing points.
- Bracket type. Fixed is fastest; tilt, and especially full-motion arms, take longer to set up level and true.
- Cable management. Leaving cables visible is free. Trunking adds a little. Chasing cables into the wall and making good adds the most.
- Height and access. Above a fireplace or high on a stairwell wall takes longer and sometimes needs two people.
One thing to check before you book
Moving a power socket, or adding one behind the TV, is electrical work. A like-for-like socket swap is fine, but a brand-new socket on a new circuit is notifiable under Part P and needs a registered electrician. If you want a hidden socket behind the screen, mention it when you ask for a quote so we can tell you which category it falls into — see what electrical work a handyman can legally do.
Do I need to supply the bracket?
You can supply your own, or we can source one and itemise it in the quote. If you’re buying, check the VESA pattern on the back of your TV matches the bracket, and that the bracket’s weight rating exceeds your TV’s weight.
Wall type: the thing that actually sets the price
| Wall | Common where | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| Plasterboard on timber studs | Modern builds, loft conversions | Quickest — fix into the studs, not the board |
| Solid brick | Victorian and Edwardian houses | Slower, hard mortar, needs proper masonry fixings |
| Dot-and-dab plasterboard over brick | Many 1990s+ conversions | Deceptive — needs long fixings reaching the brick behind the void |
| Concrete or block | Post-war flats, high-rise | Slowest, needs a proper hammer drill |
| Metal stud partition | Offices, some new flats | Needs specific fixings; heavy TVs may need a backing board |
Dot-and-dab is the one that catches people out. It feels hollow like a stud wall, but there’s brick 20–40mm behind it. Fix into the plasterboard alone and the TV will eventually pull off the wall, taking a chunk of the board with it. This is the single most common cause of failed DIY TV mounts we get called out to.
How to work out your wall
- Knock it. A hollow sound across the whole wall suggests studs. Hollow in patches with solid points every 400–600mm suggests dot-and-dab.
- Check the age. Pre-1930s London housing is usually solid brick. Post-1990 conversions are often dot-and-dab.
- Look at the skirting. A deep gap behind the skirting often means a void behind the board.
- External vs internal. An external wall in an older London property is almost always solid masonry.
If you’re not sure, don’t guess in your quote request — say “not sure, here’s a photo and the property is a 1900s conversion”. That’s more useful than a wrong guess.
Choosing a bracket
- Fixed / flat. Cheapest, sits closest to the wall, no adjustment. Best when seating is directly in front.
- Tilt. Angles down — useful when the TV sits high, such as above a fireplace.
- Full-motion / cantilever. Pulls out and swivels. Best for corner mounting or watching from a kitchen as well as a sofa. Heaviest, needs the strongest fixings, and takes longest to fit.
Two things to check before buying: the VESA pattern (the hole spacing on the back of the TV, e.g. 400×400mm) must match the bracket, and the bracket’s weight rating must comfortably exceed your TV’s weight. Both are printed in the TV manual and on the bracket box.
Getting the height right
The most common regret after a TV install isn’t the bracket — it’s the height. As a rough guide, the centre of the screen should sit near eye level when you’re seated, which for most sofas puts it around 100–110cm from the floor. That is usually lower than people expect.
Mounting above a fireplace looks tidy but forces you to look up, which gets uncomfortable over a long film. If that’s the plan, a tilting bracket helps considerably. We’ll mark the position and let you look at it before anything is drilled.
Cable options, cheapest first
- Leave them visible. Free. Fine if a unit sits directly below.
- Cable tidy or sleeve. A few pounds, gathers the cables into one run.
- Surface trunking. Small addition, paintable to match the wall — the usual compromise.
- Chased into the wall. Cleanest look, highest cost. Involves cutting a channel, plastering and repainting. Best done as part of redecorating.
Important: running mains cable inside a wall is different from running an HDMI or aerial cable. Adding a new socket behind the TV is electrical work — see the note above on Part P.
Renting? Read this first
Most tenancy agreements require written permission before drilling into walls. Get it in writing, keep it, and ask whether you’ll be expected to make good when you leave. Filling four bracket holes and touching up paint at the end of a tenancy is a small job, and far cheaper than losing part of a deposit over it.
Frequently asked questions
How much does a handyman charge to mount a TV in London?
£60–£180 depending on TV size, bracket type, wall type and whether cables are concealed. Most standard jobs land between £60 and £120.
How long does it take to wall-mount a TV?
Usually 1–2 hours. A simple fixed bracket on a stud wall can be under an hour; chasing cables into masonry takes longer.
Can a TV be mounted on a plasterboard wall?
Yes, provided the bracket is fixed into the timber studs behind the board, not just the plasterboard. For heavy TVs we fix across multiple studs or add a backing batten.
Can you hide the cables?
Yes — either in surface trunking painted to match the wall, or chased into the wall and made good. Chasing costs more and needs redecoration afterwards.
Can you mount a TV above a fireplace?
Usually yes, subject to the wall construction and heat from the fire. We’ll check the chimney breast and advise before fixing anything.
Get a fixed price for your TV install
Send a photo of the wall and your TV size and we’ll price it — free, usually within 30 minutes during working hours. Call 0800 102 6422, message us on WhatsApp, or request a quote online.
Related: full London price list · what a handyman can do · hourly rates.